Marrakech

Marrakech was founded by the Almoravids in 1070 and gave the country its name, "Morocco" derives from Marrakech. Under the Almohads in the 12th century it gained the Koutoubia mosque, whose minaret still sets the skyline and the maximum building height of the old city.

Successive dynasties left their mark: the Saadians in the 16th century built the palaces and tombs whose zellige and carved cedar remain a high-water mark of Moroccan craft. After periods of decline and revival, the 20th century brought artists, couturiers and travellers, from Winston Churchill to Yves Saint Laurent, who fell for the light and never quite left.

Marrakech is worldly and used to visitors, but it is still a traditional city. Modest dress, shoulders and knees covered, is appreciated, especially in the medina and away from hotels. A few words of French or Arabic go a long way, and a smile defuses almost anything.

Bargaining in the souks is expected and good-natured; decide what a piece is worth to you and enjoy the exchange. Photographing people, and the performers of Jemaa el-Fnaa, should be done with permission and usually a small tip. Friday is the main prayer day, when parts of the medina slow down.

Marrakech is generally safe for travellers, including couples, families and solo visitors. Violent crime against tourists is rare; the everyday nuisances are persistent touts, unofficial "guides" offering directions for money, and pickpocketing in the busiest lanes and around Jemaa el-Fnaa.

Sensible precautions cover most of it: keep valuables close in crowds, agree taxi fares or use a metered/booked car, and be politely firm with unsolicited help. Women travelling solo report Marrakech as manageable with the same street awareness any large city calls for. Travelling with a vetted local host, as we arrange, removes most of the friction entirely.

The medina is a walking city, its tangle of derbs (alleys) is half the pleasure and no car can follow you in. For longer hops to Gueliz, the gardens or the airport, use petit taxis (agree the fare or ask for the meter) or a pre-arranged private driver.

Distances are short: the airport is about fifteen minutes away, and most sights sit within the walls or a brief ride beyond them. For day trips into the Atlas, the Agafay desert or the coast at Essaouira, a private driver-guide is the comfortable, flexible choice.

Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are ideal: warm days, cool evenings and gardens at their best. Winter is mild and clear by day, cold at night, and pairs beautifully with snow on the Atlas. High summer (July–August) is very hot, best enjoyed slowly, with a pool, early starts and shaded courtyards.

Ramadan shifts the city's rhythm each year: daytime is quieter, evenings come alive after the fast is broken. It can be a wonderful, atmospheric time to visit with the right guidance.