Fès

Fès was founded around 789 by Idris I and developed by his son Idris II, becoming a refuge for Andalusian and Tunisian families whose skills shaped the city's crafts and character. By the medieval period it was one of the great centres of learning in the Islamic world.

Al-Qarawiyyin, mosque, library and university founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, sits at the city's heart, alongside exquisite Marinid-era madrasas. Successive dynasties enriched Fès with fountains, fondouks and gates, leaving the dense, layered medina that UNESCO now protects.

Fès is Morocco's artisan capital. Whole quarters are organised by trade, tanners, dyers, weavers, coppersmiths, potters and the zellige-cutters whose geometric mosaics you will see across the country. Watching a master at work, then buying directly, is one of travel's great pleasures here.

The city is proud and traditional. Modest dress is appreciated, and Friday carries the rhythm of prayer. In a medina this intricate, a licensed local guide is not a luxury but the key that unlocks it, and keeps you from the well-meaning "helpers" who appear when you look lost.

Fès is a safe destination for visitors. As in any busy medina, the main friction comes from touts and unofficial guides rather than crime, and the sheer complexity of the lanes means it is easy to get turned around.

The simplest fix is to explore with a licensed guide, at least on your first day, and to keep valuables secure in crowds. With a trusted local host, which we arrange, Fès becomes not just navigable but genuinely intimate, opening doors that stay closed to the passing tourist.

Spring and autumn are ideal, with comfortable temperatures for walking the hilly medina. Summer is hot and can be tiring given how much of Fès is explored on foot; winter is cool and quiet, with crisp, clear days well suited to the city's indoor wonders.