Chefchaouen

No one is entirely sure. Theories range from a Jewish tradition brought by refugees, to keeping mosquitoes away, to simply keeping the walls cool, and, today, keeping a beloved tradition alive. Whatever the origin, the result is magical, and the townsfolk repaint faithfully each year.

Chefchaouen is gentler and more laid-back than Morocco's big cities, with far less hassle. It rewards slowness: there are few must-see monuments and everything is the point, the light, the colours, the cats on the steps. Modest dress is appreciated, as ever, and Rifian Amazigh culture runs deep here.

Spring and early autumn are loveliest, with mild mountain air and flowers against the blue. Summer is warm and busiest; winter is cool and can be wet, with the occasional dusting of snow on the surrounding peaks.